Saturday, December 1, 2012

Hola - it's a phiesta!

When a teenager asks to have a party many images leap into the mind of a parent.  Most of them are ones you don't wish to play out in your home.  Our children therefore steer away from the party word and instead suggest they would like to arrange a small gathering to celebrate their birthday or the end of exams or whatever.  I always call this thing "not a party" - until Phoebe & I were sitting down to discuss the food preparations for this year's birthday "not a party".   Her favourite cuisine is Mexican and as the event morphed from a planned barbeque and salad to a Mexican evening I coined the term Phiesta.  She made me promise not to say it in public, so this is just between us.  Don't tell anyone.
All good events start (and/or finish) with a cocktail (see last week's entry) so we began the evening with the ubiquitous Margarita.  I always thought I didn't like this drink and was pleased to see the back of a bottle of tequila which had been lurking since Phoebe made a batch of Margarita cupcakes a year or two ago.  It turns out I was mistaken and we now have to replace the bottle. 
To make the perfect Margarita, fill a glass with ice, add 1 1/2 oz tequila, 1 oz lime juice, 1/2 oz cointreau.  Stir until chilled.  You can make this in a salt rimmed glass or not.  Just one and you too will be planning a phiesta.
I should note that you need to buy a good quantity of limes, chillis of various kinds & avocados.  We started with tostaditas.  These involved topping good quality round corn chips (we used Mexicano) with a salsa, morsel of something meaty and a pinch of salad.  The first was prawns tossed in garlic & olive oil then sauteed.  This was assembled with a dab of almond salsa on the corn chip,  then a couple of shreds of iceberg lettuce, a small slice or two of perfectly ripened avocado. Then the prawn, another dollop of salsa & a sprinkling of finely chopped coriander or if like me you are averse, flat leaf parsley.  I used prawn cutlets & removed the tails after cooking. 
Make a quantity of almond salsa - it will be popular as a dip.  Take 2 dried guajillo chillis & tap out the seeds.  Soak them in boiling water for half an hour.  I bought them at Moore Wilson or you can probably buy them on line.  When they are done soaking, roughly chop them & blend them in a processor with 2/3 cup sour cream (I use Zany Zeus), 1/2 cup blanched roasted almonds, 1/2 cup grated cheddar, 2 tbsp coriander/ parsley, zest of a lime plus 3 tsp juice, salt & pepper.  Add more lime juice to taste & to get to a consistency you like.
Second tostadita was chicken.  Cut a chicken breast in half to get two thin flat pieces. Marinade in 2 tbsp olive oil, 1 tbsp lime juice, 1 tsp cumin, 1 tsp smoked paprika, 1 clove crushed garlic, salt & pepper.  This is enough for two breasts.  Cook the chicken in a pan until golden and slice or shred.
To assemble, spread the corn chip with refried beans then top with a slice or 2 of chicken, a dollop of lime crema then top with a little pile of julienned radish & coriander/parsley.
To make refried beans, heat a little oil in a pan and soften 1 finely chopped onion with 2 cloves crushed garlic.  Add 1 1/2 tsp cumin, 1 tsp dried oregano, 2 tsp finely chopped chipotle peppers in adobo sauce and cook for a couple of minutes.  If any teenagers mistake the chilles for tomatoes & eat three before realising the error, a glass of milk will help.  Don't ask me how you get three down before you notice they're not tomatoes! Back to the pan.  Add 2 tins of beans - you could use pintos or really whatever YOU like.  I used Westbrae organic chilli beans which was a mix of black, pinto & kidney - not flavoured which the label suggested but I assume intended for use in chilli or refried beans.  Cook gently for a few minutes to heat through then crush half the beans with a fork or other mashing implement.  Don't be precise - you just want some beans mashed & some not.  Stir through coriander/ parsley and 2 tbsp sour cream.  Oh, and add parsley/coriander to the list above.
To make the lime crema, mix 1/2 cup sour cream with 1/2 cup thick yoghurt, 1 clove crushed garlic, zest of a lime, 1 tbsp lime juice, salt & pepper.
I made an interesting dip with tomatillos & avocados.  I have sometimes bought tomatillos fresh at Moore Wilson but on this occasion I had to buy tinned.   Blend the tin of drained tomatillos with 1/2 cup coriander/parsley, 1 clove crushed garlic, 2 avocados, 2 tbsp lime juice, salt & pepper, tabasco to taste.
When I make guacamole I usually just mash avocados with a splash of lemon or lime & some hot sauce.  I went to a bit more trouble and the result was amazing.  Pound 1/2 small very finely chopped red onion, 1 lge finely chopped red chilli, 1 clove crushed garlic, 1/2 cup finely chopped coriander/parsley, 1 tsp sea salt, in a pestle & mortar until you have a smoothish thick paste.  I initially tried to blend it but you really need to go down the pounding path.  Transfer to a large bowl & scoop in 2 large perfectly ripened avocados with lime juice to get the taste & consistency you want.  Fold in some extra of the green herb you are using
For the main event we did tacos filled with pork carnitas and a vegan version with refried beans (sans sour cream).  I got 1 1/2 kilos pork shoulder, skin off, fat on, and cut it into approx 3 cm chunks.  Put it into a large roasting pan and toss with 2 cloves crushed garlic, 1 tsp cumin, 1 tsp sea salt, 2 tbsp water & cover tightly with foil.  Braise at 170 for an hour and a half.  It will be exceedingly tender.  When it's cooled remove the fat and drain off most of the liquid - leave about 2 tbsp.  I made this the day before & refrigerated overnight.  To serve put the pork in a saute pan & sprinkle over 2 tbsp soft brown sugar.  Cook over a high heat until the meat is golden brown & caramelised then sprinkle over the juice of a lime & let it bubble up.
We put dishes of the pork, beans, all the dips, a dish of shredded lettuce, and a pico de gallo on the table with plates and pieces of parchment paper (for ease of handling and left them to have what they wanted. 
Pico de gallo is a fresh tomato salsa.  Dice 2 cups tomatoes  - if they seem liquidy, sprinkle on a little salt & leave them to drain in a colander for 1/2 an hour.  Combine them with 1 clove crushed garlic, 1/4 cup finely chopped red onion, 1 finely chopped red chilli, 1/2 cup finely chopped green herb, juice of a lime, olive oil - I used Olivo's chilli infused - salt & pepper.
For afters, I made a chocolate cinnamon chilli cake.  This is sooo easy & so delicious.  Melt 200g butter & 200g dark chocolate in a large bowl over a pan of hot water.  Use the bowl you are going to mix the cake in. Stir in 1 cup caster sugar & 1 tsp vanilla extract & leave to cool.  Mix in 4 lightly beaten eggs, 2 tbsp flour, 1/2 tsp salt, 1 tsp cinnamon, 1/2 tsp cayenne.  Pour into a greased, lined 20cm cake tin and bake 25 mins at 170.  It may not seemed cooked but you want a delicate almost crisp crusty top with something sludge-like within.  Leave to cool completely in the tin.
 To serve dust with icing sugar mixed with 1/2 tsp each cocoa & cinammon.  I think it would be nice to dust over a paper doily to make a pretty design but we didn't appear to have one.  Must buy some.  Serve with whipped cream infused with vanilla extract, and candied pepitas.
Pepitas are pumpkin seeds.  Combine an egg white (not beaten) with 1/2 cup caster sugar, 1/4 tsp cinnamon & 70g pumpkin seeds.  Spread this on a lined baking tray & bake at 170 for 10 mins turning once.  To turn it I laid another piece of paper over the top & flipped it then peeled off the first piece.  It was still a bit sticky in parts but it crisps up when cooled.  Break it into bits to serve.
We also served Margarita cupcakes - the vegan version.  These called for coloured sugar crystals & it just happened that we had bought Phoebe a tin of these from Dean & De Luca in NYC.
And in case you were wondering, in spite of the Margaritas and Corona beer served with lime wedges and eating slightly messy food on their knees, the house looked almost as tidy when the phiesta-goers left as when they arrived.  When one reveller came into the kitchen looking for something to mop up a spill, Peter asked how large, wondering whether to provide a sheet of paper towel or the whole roll.  The response - approximately 50 millilitres!

Sunday, November 25, 2012

Pastrami on Rye

I love New York!  The food is wonderful. Our movements were somewhat restricted due to Hurricane Sandy but that didn't seem to prevent us from eating all the things we wanted to and some things we hadn't thought of.
Again the oysters were unexpected.  Many bars have oyster happy hour - $1 per oyster.  On the Sunday evening before the storm we enjoyed a dozen oysters in a the Domaine wine bar in Long Island City.  Then because there was a hurricane coming by and not so many customers, the barman suggested that we have another dozen at happy hour prices. 
That evening we also went to a nearby bar to listen to Edgar Allan Poe readings by the fireside.  This event was related to Halloween but the eerie atmosphere was enhanced by the strengthening winds swirling outside.  Unfortunately, the basement of this bar was flooded during the storm and it lost power for some weeks and all its sound equipment.
I had the best cocktails ever in the Dutch Kills Bar in Long Island City.  If you are in the area visit this bar.  They serve outstanding cocktails mixed with hand cut ice.  Visit the web site and watch the videos. Rather than too sweet, many of the cocktails are made with ginger and lemon and are really refreshing.
I wanted to go to an authentic New York Italian restaurant and we went with our host and his neighbours to the very thing.  Trattoria L'Incontro in Astoria, Queens.  There is an extensive menu but don't pay much attention to that because once you have perused it and considered what you might order, your waiter will return and reel off a list of specials so long you won't retain any of it although you will vaguely recall that you liked the sound of item 13 if you could only remember what it was.  This was an outstanding meal. 
The other thing I was keen to do was to eat in a New York deli.  We were recommend to try the Stage Deli on 7th Avenue and I can recommend this to you.  Peter and I both went for the traditional pastrami on rye with a side of potato salad.  We barely managed it.  I saw a Triple Decker being delivered to another table and I must have looked so astounded the server came over and said to me, "yours is just a trainer sandwich!"  We shared a slice of New York cheesecake between three with coffee afterwards.  I have never liked cheesecake in my life but I liked this.
And you can't go past the traditional diner.  We absolutely loved the Red Flame diner on West 44th St.  You could even order and have the meals delivered.  Good quality, affordable meals - the problem is what to choose off a menu the length of a small novel.  The salads are really good and it was here that Peter had wonderful homemade lemonade.
It's nice to be back to home cooking but I am looking forward to a follow up hurricane-free visit when I hope to sample more traditional NY fare.

Sunday, November 18, 2012

Dining in DC

We have been enjoying the delights of North American cuisine and I thought I'd share with you.  We spent 4 days in Washington DC and that was an unexpected culinary delight.  We stayed at the Tabard Inn in Dupont Circle.  This was recommended by a friend and I am recommending it to you.  Breakfast was included in the room rate and this was a great breakfast.  We also spent some time in the hotel lounge enjoying the pre- and post-prandial cocktails.  I recommend the Don't Bring me Down, Spruce. 
Washington is located by the Potomac river and seafood abounds.  On our first day The Old Ebbitt Grill caught our eye and we dined there that evening.  They had an extensive oyster menu and we shared a dozen as a starter with the recommended glass of Jules Taylor Sauvignon, which was named Grand Champion in the Old Ebbitt Grill 2011 International Wines for Oyster Competition!
I followed these briny delights with lobster which I have never eaten before.  It just seemed the right thing to do.  It's a bit fiddly but well worth the effort if you haven't tried it.  This is definitely a seafood town. 
Peter had the crab cakes which are a speciality of the region.  They are essentially a fish cake so comprise fish and potato.  These and the ones I enjoyed later in the week at the Tabard restaurant were definitely a very high ratio of crab to potato.
They did not disappoint.   I am not sure if they are seasonal or if you can enjoy them year round. 
The rest of the time we enjoyed diner fare.  A good American diner is a delight and we enjoyed 2 in Washington.  The Luna Grill and Diner nearby served classic diner fare including delicious salads, burgers and somewhat over-sized sandwiches.  This is proper food at affordable prices.  Yes, some of the meals are over-sized but you don't have to eat it all.  Your lettuce will be fresh and crisp, your vegetables will be perfectly cooked,  your burger will be grilled to your specifications and the service will be impeccable. As you can see I am a fan of the diner.  When we spent a morning strolling around Georgetown we had lunch in a diner there.  Martin's Tavern claimed to have served every sitting president since it opened and that JFK proposed to Jacqueline Bouvier there.  Certainly their home while he was a congressman is just around the corner.
I was really delighted with eating in Washington.  I hadn't been expecting anything special and was saving my eating for the next leg of our trip - New York City.  Here we enjoyed more cocktails, classic NY Italian fare, the deli sandwich and a hurricane.  More on that to come.