Spicing up cold nights

This week has been cold and wet and very windy so the one-pot hearty meal has been our standby. We've had a version of chicken cacciatore (which means something like hunter's chicken in Italian) and is a hearty chicken stew with any number of variations. I brown chicken thighs (6-8, halved) in the Le Creuset, then put aside. I then saute onion, garlic and halved button mushrooms until onion is soft. Add a squeeze of tomato paste, a tin of crushed tomatoes, 1 cup chicken stock and 1/2 cup rinsed red lentils. Return chicken to the pan and simmer covered for about 1/2 an hour, until chicken is done. Before serving, stir through a handful of olives & capers and some fresh oregano & chopped parsley. I love this meal and it is great reheated the next day.

I also did a spicy lamb stew which is a great standby in our house. This is so simple I'm not sure I should share - at the table it gives the impression I've gone to a lot of trouble. Cut about 500g lamb leg steaks into cubes & toss in flour. Cut 1 or 2 onions into thin wedges & soften in the pan (Le Creuset again), then add the floured lamb & brown. Stir in 1 tsp each of ground cinnamon & turmeric and cook 1 minute, then add about 1 cup beef stock and a handful of prunes (even if you don't want to eat them, put them in as they really add flavour), cover & walk away. The lamb will be tender in about 1/2 an hour but can handle longer if you're busy. To make it go further I often add a tin of drained chickpeas 15 mins before the end and if, as I did this week, I have rows of spinach in the garden calling to be picked, I add a large handul of roughly chopped spinach to wilt just before the end. If you don't add the spinach sprinkle on some chopped coriander leaves or parsley. I usually serve with couscous because we all love it and it soaks up the juices, or you could serve with rice.

We had the chicken pilaf I talked about last week again and, just because I could, I sprinkled some of my freshly sprouted puy lentils on top. That turned out to be a great idea. We served the pilaf with Lois Daish's Afghan sweet poached pumpkin from this month's Cuisine.

I had been put in mind of tagine, having recently had a phone call from my cousin who is an excellent cook herself. She had asked for some tagine spice advice and I couldn't remember where my best lamb tagine recipe came from. This was itself a concern and had been on my mind since the phone call. Luckily I have an excellent book of tagine recipes given to me by aforementioned cousin and that is usually my source for other tagines. Yesterday morning it came to me and so we had it for dinner and here it is for you.

I have just bought a new pestle & mortar (on special at 1/2 price), as the one we had didn't quite cut (or grind) the mustard. I would recommend investing in a good, heavy one as it is really satisfying making your own spice mixes and you will find more & more uses for it. In another blog I'll introduce you to a fantastic garam masala mix we learned off a visitor from Guyana. Remind me if I forget. I have a tagine but if you don't, use the Le Creuset. With our tagine we also had a beautiful chickpea dish - with spinach (from the garden), onion and preserved lemon.

Another thing I have been meaning to tell you about is Canaan Israeli cheeses. They are based in New Lynn and you can get them at Botany New World in Auckland or in Wellington at Moore Wilson or the Mediterranean Warehouse in Newtown. Try the Galilee. It's indescribable.

As I seem to be on a bit of a Middle Eastern theme tonight, we had chicken roasted with spices. Cumin, cinnamon & Spanish smoked paprika - I use La Chinata. To accompany we had roasted pumpkin rubbed with cumin and roasted beetroot (from the garden) dressed with honey & pomegranate balsamic vinegar and feta (great for those who are not so keen on beetroot!). To complete the ensemble I prepared the couscous in hot chicken stock and mixed through some finely chopped spring onions and pinenuts.

Before dinner this evening we sat down with a plate of home made water crackers and a selection of cheeses. Remember those onions I pickled a couple of weeks ago - well they are ready and delicious. And you may be interested to hear that the olives are coming on nicely.

More rice

Now that you have mastered risotto, try a rice dish you can walk away from. You can cook a pilaf on the stovetop or in the oven & the trick here is once you've put the stock in you mustn't be tempted to lift the lid. Try Nigella's Scented Chicken Pilaf on the stovetop or this version done in the oven.

Preheat the oven to 190 in a stovetop/ovenproof casserole (if you have a Le Creuset Dutch Oven that would be perfect), soften finely chopped onion, carrot, celery & garlic with 1/2 c toasted pinenuts, a cinnamon stick, some lemon zest and 6 diced chicken thighs. About 10 minutes will do it. Add 1/2 tsp turmeric, 2 cups basmati rice, well-rinsed and 4 cups chicken stock. Season and bring to the boil then cover and put in the oven for 25 minutes. Do not peek. When it's done fluff up the rice and sprinkle over a few more pinenuts & chopped coriander or parsley. You have a complete meal and only one pot to wash up. Serve with a spicy chutney - green tomato relish or tamarillo are good. This recipe serves 6 but make it all because your diners will certainly want seconds and this makes a fantastic lunch reheated the next day, or even served as a side of rice alongside another main dish.

We have another favourite one pot rice dish with fish although this actually uses 2 pots because you cook the rice first. Cook basmati rice using your usual method. I usually do 1/4 cup per person unless you are feeding a teenage boy or sportsperson. In your heavy casserole soften onion & garlic. Add a tin of chopped tomatoes (I always buy chopped because you don't really want whole mushy tomatoes), either a finely chopped chilli or a light sprinkling of chilli flakes (I use flakes because it's easy & there's no risk of blinding from chilli juice), and a small cup of wine. Bring to the boil & simmer for 10 minutes. Then add the rice with about 150g white fish per person (chopped coarsely), some finely chopped capsicum (use more than 1 colour) and my kitchen standbys - some frozen prawns, scallops, sweetcorn & peas. Heat through gently until cooked, sprinkle on some chopped parsley & serve.

On Friday night we dined at Floriditas in Cuba St, one of our favourite restaurants. The menu changes daily and any description I might give won't do it justice. Go there and find out. And you will love their baking which you can also buy at Moore Wilsons.

Another interesting activity in our kitchen this weeks has been the brining of some fresh olives we bought at Moore Wilson. I'll let you know how we get on. It will take about 6 weeks. And I am sprouting some puy lentils which should be ready in a couple of days.

Risotto

Now that you have all that stock in the freezer you're ready to tackle risotto or any other one pot rice dish. Most cultures that eat rice seem to have one. Think pilau or pilaf (India, Middle East, Africa), paella (Spain), nasi goreng (Indonesia), and risotto from Italy.

This is a classic Sicilian risotto that gives you a good feel for how it works. Be brave about quantities of oil and wine. You'll get a really creamy risotto. You must use a good risotto rice - Arborio, Vialone Nano, or Carnaroli. Do NOT wash the rice and heat your stock first.

Start by softening your vegetable from the allium family - I usually use a leek but really whatever you have in the cupboard is good - onion, shallots.

If you are making a risotto with fish consider including half a finely chopped fennel bulb at this stage. stick of celery finely chopped adds good flavour. Once the onions are softened add the rice and cook for a minute or so to coat with the oil. Then add the wine (or if you are making risotto with fish then you could use Pernod).

Cook down the wine until evaporated and then start adding your hot stock, a ladle at a time. You want the liquid to be absorbed before adding the next ladleful. The point of the stirring is to release the starch which is what makes the risotto creamy so make sure you keep stirring. Use about 2 1/2 times liquid to rice. The trick is to add it slowly and stir to incorporate. Think of it as therapeutic. Draw up a stool to the stove. Ladle and stir, don't let anyone distract you. It will take about 18 minutes. Listen to your favourite music and pour yourself a glass of wine - you already have a bottle open.
If the meat or veg you are adding needs cooking, add it with the rice, if it is already coooked or just needs very light cooking, add it at the end. Once you feel your risotto is cooked, cover and let stand 2-3 minutes. Then stir through parmesan and a knob of butter. I sometimes like to add parsley because I like the colour. Let the diners add additional parmesan at the table to taste.

Start with something really simple like adding chopped ham & frozen peas. Or shredded chicken and mushrooms (you've just roasted a chicken to make the stock). Follow the basic rules then get the feel of how you like your risotto and then it will become your ultimate comfort food. This is home food not fancy restaurant fare.

As an aside this week made spelt rolls from Hugh's River Cottage autumn programme. I halved the flour & water and used 1 instant yeast sachet making eight rolls. These rolls smelled so good I was standing dribbling by the oven and the minute they came out I ripped into them risking blistered fingers. You need to discover them for yourself. I will be experimenting with this flour over the next few weeks.

Talking Stock

We started the week with the dinner that always follows roast chicken - chicken pie which could be called "Roast Chicken Leftover Pie". Basically you soften some onion (any type of onion or leek) in butter, add flour then instead of milk add some of the stock you made with your chicken carcass. Once it's thickened a little mix in your shredded leftover chicken with your finely chopped leftover veg and gravy if you have any. I usually add 1/2 a cup of frozen peas and/or sweetcorn and some finely sliced white button mushrooms. If it is too dry add some cream or more stock or even a little boiling water. Season to taste. Tip into a casserole dish and top with pastry. Bake at 175 C for about 1/2 an hour until the pastry top is golden.

This seems a good time to talk stock. You need to have a range of good stocks in your freezer. Always make chicken stock when you roast a chicken, you can get fish bones from your fishmonger and shin bones from your butcher. The basics are the same : onion, carrot, celery, leek and the herbs, thyme & bayleaf with peppercorns and even chilli flakes if you like, then for fish add fennel & mushroom and to the others you can add dried mushroom but be careful because they have a strong flavour. For a standard chicken carcass or 1kg beef or fish bones use 2-2 1/2 litres water. Bring to the boil & simmer for 2-3 hours. Simmer your fishbones or heads first for 20 mins & strain before adding veg. Roast the beef bones in a hot oven for 45 mins with some tomato puree or a squeeze of paste & water. Once cooked strain into a large bowl and when cooled skim off any fat before storing in fridge or freezer. You usually want to use 2-3 cups so I freeze in Glad 740 ml containers with a couple of smaller 280 ml batches for miscellaneous use. If you remember get it out the night before and defrost in the fridge. This saves power because it helps to keep the fridge cool and gives it a bit of a day off.

This week we used 250 ml chicken stock (chicken pie), 750 ml chicken stock (pilaf), 750 ml vegetable stock (minestrone), 1 l beef stock (French onion soup).

Can't let the week go by without mentioning figs. Two simple things to do with figs. One a starter & one a pudding.

The starter we first had at Capitol, (turn your speakers on...) one of our favourite restaurants in Wellington. Then Martin Bosley included a recipe in his Listener column this week. Cut the figs - two per person is ample - down through the stalk close to the bottom so that they open out in 4 quarters (as Nigella says "like young birds squawking to be fed worms by their Mummy"). Stuff them with your favourite blue cheese. We discovered a lovely French version of Gorgonzola, called St Agur, at Truffle - a lovely specialty food outlet tucked away at the back of Cuba St. Wrap each fig in a slice of prosciutto and bake in a very hot (250C) preheated oven for around 5 minutes. The combination of slightly sweet fruit, salty cheese and crispy ham is indescribable.

For afters, you can't go past Nigella's Figs for 1001 Nights. You will need vanilla sugar - keep a container of sugar with a vanila pod in it - and rosewater and orange flower water - don't worry about buying a whole bottle of these as we have more recipes using them to come. Nigella uses mascarpone but we have used creme fraiche.