Un soir a Paris

I am between jobs.  Really.  I start the new one on Monday.  I had planned a week of walking, gardening and cooking some of those meals I have been meaning to make at the end of a long day but there isn't the time.  But things don't always turn out.  Peter had a week of evening events at work and I ate a little more simply.  Thursday night he was in and I decided to make something I have wanted to make since I first encountered it at the Hofbrauhaus in Auckland when I was seventeen. My seventh form German class took our teacher there for dinner because we loved her and wanted to thank her for being such a great teacher.  Because of this experience I believed for many years that this classic French dish was German.  And for some reason I have never eaten it in Paris.
Often when I get an idea in my head it grows.  This was the case here.  A search on Eat your Books revealed that I have two recipes for steak tartare.  For those who don't know, Eat your Books is a recipe site that has indexed thousands of cooking books.  You add all your books and magazines then when you are looking for a recipie you type in a couple of ingredients and it tells you which book it is in.  Do investigate.  It is wonderful.  Was slightly scary to discover how many cook books I have. Does anyone care to guess?
Anyway back to my steak.  Rick Stein's French Odyssey and Sarah Woodward's The Food of France gave me the general idea.  I then thought we would start our evening with an aperitif and was thinking about accompanying this with buttered radishes, however I think this is best with freshly picked and I don't have any ready right now.  I was flicking thrrough the books and came up with seared scallops with puy lentils.  It's the scallop season so this seemed perfect.
First make a dressing for the scallops.  For a dozen scallops, heat two tablespoons of olive oil in a small saucepan and add four finely chopped cloves of garlic then four chopped tomatoes, skinned and deseeded and some finely chopped rosemary and thyme.  Simmer 10 minues or so until until it is pulpy.  In another small saucepan heat two tbsp red wine vinegar with one tsp caster sugar and reduce to about 2 tsp.  Add to the tomato sauce and season.  Set aside.  For two, cook about 1/4 cup puy lentils, season and dress with olive oil then keep warm while you enjoy your aperitif.  We had kir, which if you recall from an earlier post is creme de cassis with white wine.  When you are ready to eat finish off the tomato sauce with a tbsp of lemon juice and a tsp of chopped basil and parsley. Season and heat gently while you cook the scallops.  Heat the pan then add a litle olive oil and sear the scallops a minute or two on each side.  I don't remove the roe and I can't understand why people do that.  Serve with the lentils and pour the sauce over the scallops.
For the steak you want about 100-120g of fillet steak per person.  Trim off any fat or sinew then chop very finely. Season well with salt and pepper  This took quite a while so allow time.  You want to serve it well chilled so chop it first then put in a covered bowl in the fridge while you prepare the rest.
Accompany with with finely chopped shallots, parsley, cornichons, capers and Dijon mustard, Worcestershire sauce, tabasco and olive oil.  You could serve it ready mixed but we did ours at the table because we wanted to do them slightly differently.  Shape the beef into neatish rounds on a plate and make an indent in the centre.  Top each round with an egg yolk and serve with shoestring fries. 
We had macarons with coffee.  Not home made, I am almost (but not quite) too ashamed to say, but locally made nonetheless.  Finish the meal with a good brandy.  To transport yourselves completely to France accompany with Django Reinhardt and Edith Piaf.

Pork & left overs

This was a busy week and most of what we ate you've seen before, literally. I raided the freezer, partly because we were busy & partly because the freezer was getting too full to easily find stuff or fit more in.

On Sunday night we had roast pork, which I know is a favourite of a couple of you. I usually accompany pork with lentils & cabbage. I often cook lentils on Sunday to go in salad lunches for work so I just made a bit extra. And potatoes are expected by some at my table. Sometimes things go wrong and have unexpected results. Get your pork out of the fridge & leave it at room temperature for a good while to let the skin dry out. Sit it on a rack in a roasting tin big enough for the pork (and as it turns out a few potatoes). When you're ready to cook, coat the base of the tin with a thin film of oil and put the bones in the centre for the joint to sit on. If you don't have the bones just use the rack. Put the joint in skin side up (don't salt the skin because that will soften it - season the cut sides of the meat). Put it into the oven at the hottest heat (ours is 250) for 20 minutes then turn down to 180 and cook 30 minutes per lb (or 450g for you young ones)

Have I told you before about Margie potatoes? Boil potatoes cut into largish pieces (the size you might use for roasting) for about 20 mins, then drain. Generously cover the bottom of a saute pan with olive oil and when very hot add the potatoes. Turn the heat right down and gently cook for ages until they are golden & crisp on all sides. These are known in our family as Margie potatoes. They take about an hour or so. Anyway I was making these potatoes & something went wrong. The potatoes were browning nicely but not cooked inside and the pork was nearly done. I think I was doing too many things at once and lost 20 minutes, or maybe I didn't actually boil them for long enough. Anyway after a moment of despondency the potatoes went in with the pork and the pork had 20 minutes extra in the oven. The result was still perfectly cooked pork but in addition the best crackling ever experienced. I'm not suggesting you over cook your pork on purpose but just reminding you that most kitchen disasters can be averted with quick thinking.

The left over pork went into the lunch salads & if you accidentally cook too many potatoes, a cold roast potato is delicious in a salad.

We have a stack of boeuf bourguignon in the freezer so I used one of those on Thursday and served it with ribbon pasta which is a classic French accompaniment (nouilles fraiches) & a nice change from pommes vapeur (steamed potatoes)

I also made a batch of oatmeal raisin chocolate chip orange cookies, (no pecans in the cupboard) and Phoebe had made Nigella's Granny Boyd's biscuits so we are set for baking for the next little while.

A Bit of Everything

On a busy week night make a quick and simple spicy bean stew. Soften red onion, carrot, capsicum, garlic with some chilli flakes in a large frying pan. Stir in 1 tsp cumin, 1/2 tsp cinnamon & 1/2 tsp ground nutmeg and cook for a minute or so before adding a squeeze of tomato paste, a tin of chickpeas and a tin of kidney beans, drained, 1/2 cup vegetable stock and a tin of crushed tomatoes -I sometimes use a cup or so of homemade tomato sauce (see below). Simmer uncovered for 20 minutes or so then add a cup of frozen sweet corn & cook a further 5 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley to serve. Serve on its own or with couscous.

I bring a cup of water or chicken stock to the boil, add a cup of couscous (try Tipiak) and some roasted garlic, tightly cover and leave for 10 minutes or so. Then fluff up the couscous with a fork, stir in good olive oil, toasted pinenuts and some finely chopped parsley. Sometimes I use Casbah roasted garlic & olive oil but I still add extra oil & pinenuts at the end. I just like pinenuts.

Leftovers of the beans will freeze well and you could serve as a side dish with a plate of old fashioned beef sausages and mash, or add some chopped chorizo.

Follow with rice pudding. I've always used Edmonds and we like the skin on, in our family, but last week I tried something different. Put 1 1/2 tbsp washed short-grain rice, grated zest of 1 lemon, 45g butter, cut into small pieces, 45g sugar, 500ml milk, 400ml cream, 1/2 tsp cinnamon in your ovenproof dish. Bake at 120C for 2-3 hours, stirring every hour or so. Then stir well, add juice of a lemon & serve with dried fruit compote. Put 100g each of 4 kinds if dried fruit - I used apricots, figs, prunes & sultanas - in a saucepan just covered with cold water. Bring slowly to the boil, cover & stand.

Last night we had a pork fillet with a roasted vegetable salad. For 300g pork, combine 1 tbsp olive oil, 2 clove of crushed garlic, 1 tsp finely chopped rosemary, zest of half a lemon in a bowl & season with salt & pepper. Rub over the pork & set aside.

Combine 2 parsnips & 2 carrots peeled & sliced on the diagonal, 1 red onion peeled & quartered, 4 cloves of garlic, (skin on, tops cut off), in a roasting dish, toss in a little olive oil & season. Roast at 200C about 40 mins.

Make a dressing for the veg of 1 tbsp lemon juice, 3 tbsp olive oil, crushed garlic, 1/2 tsp wholegrain mustard and some finely snipped chives. Brown the pork on all sides in a hot pan then roast for 12 minutes. Just pop a small roasting dish along side the vegetables. When done cover loosely with foil & rest for 10 minutes. When the vegetables are done add some chopped spinach leaves to the pan and let wilt down for a few minutes then toss with dressing and add the sliced pork.

I served with Puy lentils which are pretty much my standard accompaniment to pork. Soften a shallot , a clove of garlic, half a celery stick , half a carrot & a rasher of streaky bacon, all finely chopped. Once softened a cup of Puy lentils and stir until slick with oil, then add a bay leaf, a tsp grainy mustard and a cup of red wine. Cook down, then add 2 cups water, bring to the boil and simmer about 20 minutes. Add more water if necessary. I do this with most pork dishes, roast chicken and it is delicious with a garden salad, especially with left over cold pork or chicken sliced in & feta cheese. A few years ago Harriet had a friend whose household did not run to garlic or soy sauce. Puy lentils were new to him and his friendship was obviously the year of the Puy lentil. He asked if we ate them at every meal because his visits always coincided with a meal that included them. I probably do them around once a month and I always make enough to have cold with a salad for lunch. In summer I cook them up after work to take for lunch the next day.

This afternoon I made a batch of fresh tomato sauce to freeze. I use a 2550g tin which makes the equivalent of about 6 bought jars and costs less than half. Start by softening 3 finely chopped onions and 9 cloves or garlic with about 200g finely chopped streaky bacon. Add 3 finely chopped carrots, 300ml red or white wine and the tin of chopped tomatoes. Bring rapidly to the boil and after about 10 minutes add some dried oregano & season with salt & pepper. I add sugar as well because it brings out the tomato flavour. Simmer a further half hour & leave to cool. I blend it a little either in the blender or with the stick thing and freeze in about 1 cup portions. I often use this when a recipe calls for a tin of tomatoes. It will keep around a week in the fridge. The giant tins of tomatoes are really good value. I also use them to make homemade tomato ketchup.

This week we brought the olives out for inspection. When we opened the jar we were greeted with a rather unattractive furry covering which told us they were ready. Phoebe was somewhat alarmed but apparently this is what helps to preserve them. You rinse them well before the final bottling. Put them in sterilised jars & cover with a brine - ratio 1 L water to 75g salt, add 2 tbsp red wine vinegar the gently pour a layer of olive oil on the top. Seal & refrigerate once opened. We opened & served to Harriet who is an olive connoisseur. She gave them the thumbs up.

And lastly you must get some Clevedon Valley buffalo yoghurt. This is delicious. It has a wonderful sharpness. I am using the mozzarella this evening with a pumpkin cannelloni so will let you know how I get on.