Sunday, March 23, 2014

Ottolenghi inspirations

I am a huge fan of Yotam Ottolenghi.  Twice recently I have watched him on the television and been inspired to rush off and make one of his dishes.  The first was a traditional Cretan dish which I served for Harriet's birthday.  It doesn't sound so exciting on paper but it was inspirational to watch and sensational to eat. 
This recipe uses a traditional Cretan dried bread, dakos, which I couldn't find.  Yotam suggest substituting Swedish krisprolls or Italian friselle.  I broke 400g of staleish sourdough into chunks and baked on a tray at 100 until they were dried out completely but not coloured. About 20 minutes.
To serve 6-8, grate half a kilo of ripe tomatoes into a bowl.  This sounds tricky but basically grate on a box grate until you are left with a piece of skin in your hand.  It is a bit messy.  Chop another kilo of tomatoes into 1 cm dice.  Mix with 1 diced red onion, 4 cloves crushed garlic, 3 tbsp olive oil, salt & pepper.  In another bowl mix together 200ml olive oil, 100ml red wine vinegar, salt & pepper.  This may seem like a lot of oil but you will want this much.  In a pan lightly saute 2 cans of chickpeas with a little olive oil, 1 tsp ground cinnamon, 1/2 tsp turmeric, 1 tsp sweet paprika, 2 tsp ground cumin & a little salt.  Spread your dried bread in a shallow baking dish large enough to hold them snugly in a single layer.  Pour over the oil and vinegar mix, then spoon over the tomato mix. Next cover with the chickpeas.  Dot with chunks of feta (300g).  Scatter over basil & drizzle with a little olive oil.  Bake at 200 for 25 minutes until the feta starts to colour. Delicious!
The second was inspired by a meal made in Jerusalem on a Plate - split wheat and chard with pomegranate molasses.  I am not sure what exactly split wheat is but I have some freekeh in the cupboard and this was good or you could even use pearl barley but cook it longer.  For four, start by softening 2 thinly sliced leeks in olive oil.  Add the finely chopped stalks from about 600g chard.  After a couple of minutes add the sliced chard leaves.  Cook for a couple of minutes then add 2 tbsp light brown sugar, 3 tbsp pomegranate molasses, 200g of whatever wheat or grain you are using, 500g chicken stock and season.  Bring to a simmer, cover & cook about an hour. At the end of cooking remove the lid and cook down until all the liquid has evaporated and the molasses & sugar are beginning to caramelise.  You could add more molasses at the end.
You could have this as a light meal on it own but it was delicious with pork and courgette patties.  The recipe was for turkey but we had pork mince in the freezer.  I reaslised aftrewards it may not have been quite the thing because this was either a Jewish or Palestinian muslim dish.  Neither of those cultures eat pork but we do and it worked very well.  Use whatever mince you like.  First make a sour cream sauce by mixing 100g sour cream, 150g thick greek yoghurt, 1tsp lemoin juice, 1 crushed garlic clove, 1 tbsp olive oiul, 1tsp sumac, salt & pepper.  Set aside.
For the patties, in a large bowl mix 500g turkey, chicken or pork mince, 1 coarsely grated courgette, 3 finely sliced spring onions, 1 egg, 2 tbsp each chopped mint and parsley, 2 crushed garlic cloves, 1 tsp ground cumin, 1/2 tsp cayenne, salt & pepper. Shape into patties and rest.  If the mix is too wet, add some breadcrumbs or  something to help it hold together.  I used bulgar wheat, but you need to soak it in cold water for 10 minutes first, then drain and squeeze out excess moisture.  To cook the patties sear on both sides in a frying pan then finish in a hot oven (220) for 6-8 minutes.  Serve with the wheat and yoghurt sauce.  This is a meal you will want to make again. 

Saturday, March 22, 2014

Something fishy

A good friend gave me some freshly caught tuna last week and I made two delicious meals.  One of my favourite meals is something I first ate in 1976 while on holiday in Tahiti.  It is Tahiti's signature dish, e'ia ota, known in French as poisson cru.  It is so simple and quick to prepare and unbelievably delicious to eat.  For 2 hungry people you will want 250g very fresh tuna.  Cut the fish into 1-2cm pieces and put into a glass dish.  Squeeze over the juice of 2-3 limes depending on how juicy your limes are.  Refrigerate 10-15 minutes.  No longer.  Mix in some salad vegetables.  I used finely grated carrot, very finely diced red onion, finely diced green capsicum, finely julienned radish, finely sliced spring onion, chopped tomato.  You are aiming for freshness and texture.  Add 80-100 ml coconut milk and season with salt.  Refrigerate briefly & serve on a bed of shredded lettuce.  Tahitians may add sliced hard boiled egg and I might try that on another occasion. You will be amazed at how good this is. 
With the remaining tuna (I had 500g) we turned to the Mediterranean.  First make a paste.  In a pestle & mortar smash up a small piece of fresh or dried red chilli with 11/2 tbsp coriander seeds.  Add a small piece of crushed garlic, a good handful finely chopped basil and parsley, salt& pepper, juice of 1/2 a lemon.  Mix well to make a paste.  Rub on both sides of the piece of tuna.  If you are buying tuna steaks this is enough for 2 steaks.  Sear the tuna in a grill pan which has been lightly rubbed with olive oil.  About 1-2 minutes each side depending on the thickness of the fish.  You want them pink inside.  Serve with grilled courgette and sauteed potato slices.
These meals will make you want to learn to fish if you don't already know.

Thursday, February 20, 2014

I See Red

You really can eat beetroot every day.  Beetroot burgers will please both omnivores and herbivores.  Saute 1 finely chopped onion for about 5 mins until soft then add 1 peeled coarsely grated beetroot, 2 cloves crushed garlic, 1 tsp ground cumin, 1 tsp zahtar with a pinch of salt & cook 5 mins.  Stir frequently to prevent the mix catching.  Put the cooked mix into a food processor with 2 tins drained chickpeas, 1/4 cup fresh mint leaves, zest of a lemon, 1/2 cup fresh breadcrumbs.  Season and pulse until  well combined but not completely smooth.  Divide into patties of a size you want and chill for 30 minutes.  Cook the patties in oil 3 mins each side.  You can serve them on buns but if you think the addition of two hefty pieces of bread is too much, do as we did and just serve with the toppings.  Consider lettuce, avocado, grated carrot or beetroot, sprouts, tomato, feta or even a fried egg.
Beetroot risotto is a favourite of mine.  In one pan slowly steam a finely grated beetroot and in the other make a risotto base.  The beetroot will take 40 mins or so to soften so start it first.  This is the same principle as the beetroot relish I developed a while ago and you could add onions but you will also have shallots or leeks in your risotto base.  When both components are ready combine in the risotto pan and add juice and zest of a lemon with a knob of butter.  Cover & rest 5 minutes.  Season and serve dotted with ricotta or feta.  I had some unused ricotta in the fridge and that worked wonderfully.  I think it is better than Parmesan with the beetroot.  Make risotto cakes with the leftovers & serve with a poached egg.
As an aside, I used the rest of the ricotta in beefburgers which was a Nigel Slater idea and made wonderful moist burgers.  We had bought the ricotta to stuff courgette flowers and not done it.  Really I think that it is a fiddly job and I'd rather let a cafe do the work.  Floriditas do them beautifully.  We served the burgers with our now flourishing courgettes and the last of  the cranberry sauce.  Nigel suggests a tomato relish but I think that almost any relish you have in the fridge will do.
You will really impress with this colourful beetroot salad.  In a large bowl mix 3 peeled grated carrots, 2-3 radishes mandolined (you could substitute 1/2 celeriac), 2-3 beetroot peeled and grated (use 2 colours of you have them), 1 grated apple spritzed with lemon juice to prevent discolouration.  Make a dressing with 1 tbsp horseradish sauce, 1 tbsp olive oil, 1 tbsp freshly squeezed orange juice, 1 tsp English mustard, 1 clove crushed garlic, salt & pepper.  Combine with salad and garnish with cumin & pumpkin seeds and parsley. We had it on it's own but it would go well with any lean meat or fish or just a side of roasted potatoes.
Lastly a beetroot soup.  Put a largish beetroot in a baking tray with 1 cm water and bake at 200 for about an hour.  Cool (under cold water is fine) and peel.  In a pan soften 2 finely chopped onions then add 2 apples quartered (with a squeeze of lemon)  and the beetroot roughly chopped.  Pour on 1 1/2 litres chicken or vegetable stock, add 2 star anise & simmer 15 mins.  remove the star anise and blend with a hand blender until smooth.  Serve with snipped chives and a dollop of yoghurt mixed with horseradish.