Give peas a chance.

I visited a friend in Napier on my way to Auckland for Christmas and a conversation we had then is the inspiration for this post.  Last December this friend -  you know who you are - stayed for two nights.  It was a work related visit and both evenings were weeknights so we were eating weeknight suppers rather than meals for entertaining.
The first night was Monday so I made soup and it was early December so we had peas in the garden.  I made the obvious choice - pea soup.  Soften a finely sliced onion and 2 stalks finely chopped celery in a little butter, with a bay leaf. Add 3 cups chicken stock & bring to boil then add 1 kg peas - freshly picked or frozen - and boil 3 mins.  Remove from the heat & stir through 1 cup chopped parsley & 3/4 cup cream with a little ground white pepper to taste.  Blend until smooth.  Add 2 tsp red wine vinegar and salt to taste.  Keep warm while you pan fry 3 scallops per diner.  Cook them in a little butter with a little salt & some tarragon leaves.  Pour the soup into serving bowls and top each bowl with scallops and tarragon leaves. A delicious seasonal soup.
We also had a good crop of broad beans and the asparagus season was drawing to a close so I returned to another seasonal favourite. A dish of seasonal greens.  Soften a finely chopped onion, a bunch of finely sliced spring onions and a couple of cloves of finely chopped garlic.  While your alliums are softening steam a couple of bunches of asparagus and chop each stalk into three, and blanch and skin 500g of broad beans.  When the onions are done add 250g of peas to the pan and cook five minutes then add the broad beans and asparagus and cook a further five.  Add finely chopped parsley, basil and chives and a large dollop of butter. I sometimes add chunks of feta.  A delicious spring supper.
I did notice after the second evening that I had served two plates of green food.  I did not however twig that I had basically served two meals which primarily consisted of peas.  That suits me fine, however my guest hates peas.  She did not reveal this at the time but shared over a glass of wine a year later.  The most interesting thing was that in these meals she actually liked them.  So all you pea haters out there give peas another chance.
I have mentioned another great pea favourite of mine - peas with lettuce. Halve a small lettuce - a baby cos or little gem and lay in the bottom of a pan.  Add six chopped spring onions, 1 tbsp parsley, a knob of butter, 4 tbsp water or chicken stock and lots of peas.  Add a pinch of sugar.  You can add 2 baby chopped carrots if you have them.  Cover tightly and simmer about 15 minutes, less if you are using frozen peas.  This is the French classic dish  Julia Child  refers to as the glory of pea cookery.  She suggests it should be served as a separate course and eaten with a spoon. Julia also suggests serving the peas with a chilled white wine that's not too dry, or a chilled rose and I suspect that would work with any of these pea dishes.
I have however a new favourite pea recipe which I urge you to try.  Peas with sorrel and mustard is pea cookery at its absolute finest. Blanch 300g peas, refresh under cold water and set aside.  Toast a tbsp black mustard seeds and set aside. Make a paste with 2 tsp Dijon mustard and 1 1/2 tsp English mustard powder, 1/2 tsp caster sugar and a splash of water.  Sauté two or three bunches of finely sliced spring onions with 2 finely sliced garlic cloves.  When they are slightly coloured add the mustard paste, the peas, half the mustard seeds and a couple of tablespoons of Greek yoghurt.  When everything is warmed through take off the heat and stir through 100g roughly shredded sorrel.  It is the sorrel that makes this dish and you may struggle to find it.  You can substitute rocket but if you do you will need to add lemon juice.   I may have some sorrel to hand out when I separate my plants in the autumn so get in touch.

French pizza and Scottish tagine

This is the tagine I first made the day after I was given the book.  It never fails to please.  Make a marinade with one grated onion, 3 crushed garlic cloves, a knob of grated ginger, finely chopped parsley, a pinch of saffron threads, juice of a lemon, salt & pepper, 3 tbsp olive oil.  Add chicken thighs with bone in, or legs.  You could get Maryland pieces and cut them in two then you have both.  You want 1-2 pieces per person depending on the size of your diners.  Rub the marinade well into the skin & refrigerate 1-2 hours. 
Heat a tbsp olive oil with a knob of butter, in your tagine.  Remove the chicken pieces from the marinade & brown well on both sides.  Pour over the marinade & add just enough water to come halfway up the sides of the chicken pieces.  Bring to the boil, cover & bake in the oven at 180 for about 45 minutes.   Add 2 preserved lemons, cut into strips, 175g cracked green olives & 1 tsp dried oregano.  Return to the oven for a further 20 minutes.  Sprinkle some fresh oregano over the top to serve.  I served it with steamed carrots tossed with toasted cumin & coriander seeds & mint.
Sunday being rugby I decided we should do the right thing & eat pizza in front of the telly.  I made RWC Final Pizza - one half black & white, the other red, white & blue for Le Tricolore.
I also made Olivo's delicious parsnip skordalia for rugby snacks.  Toss 500g parsnips, quartered lengthwise, with 1 tbsp Helen's cumin oil and 2 tsp cumin seeds and place in a roasting pan. Put in the oven and roast at 190 for about 25 minutes until cooked through and golden. Cool.  Place the parsnips in a food processor and pulse until mashed. Add 3 cloves garlic, salt to taste & an egg yolk then pulse again. Gradually drizzle in about 1/2 cup cumin oil while pulsing, then finally add the juice of 1/2 a lemon. If the mixture is too thick add a little warm water to the desired consistency.  As well as a dip Helen suggests serving it as an accompaniment with sausages.
Monday night I made one of the best soups ever.  Pea & parsley with scallops.  If you don't eat scallops (you must be crazy) you could leave them off but they are a magnificent addition.  For 6 people, soften 1 finely chopped onion with a finely chopped stick of celery and a bay leaf in a little butter for about 10 minutes.  Add 3 cups of chicken stock & season.  Bring to the boil & add 1 kg peas.  Sadly, frozen, as mine aren't ready & I don't think I could ever harvest that quantity for a single meal.  Bring back to the boil for about 3 minutes then stir through 1 cup finely chopped parsley, 3/4 cup cream & white pepper.  Blend with a stick blender, then add 2 tsp red wine vinegar & adjust the seasoning.  Keep warm & prepare the scallops.  Heat about 50g butter in a pan & sprinkle with a little mineral salt.  Fry 3-4 scallops per person with some fresh tarragon or mint leaves, for about 1-2 minutes per side.  Top the individual soup bowls with scallops & the fried leaves then drizzle with the scallop pan juices. 
A couple of weeks back, I had a sorrel risotto at Floriditas & as I have some in the garden, I thought I would try this at home.  I made a basic risotto using finely chopped onion & celery as the base then at the end I stirred though 1/2 dozen finely chopped sorrel leaves & the zest of half a lemon.  I finished off with the juice of the lemon half & a knob of butter.  It was wonderful.  You should grow sorrel.  It is delicious cooked & in salads & grows so easily.  I found the half dead seedling languishing in a dark corner at the garden centre & this week I am planning to separate the plant as it has flourished.
I had a small piece of pumpkin that needed to be eaten.  Enter Moroccan chicken with rice & pumpkin.  Tie 2 boneless chicken thighs per person, with kitchen string so that they keep their shape.  Heat the oil in an oven proof dish & brown the chicken on all sides.  Set aside.  For 6, add finely chopped onions & carrots with 3 cloves crushed garlic & cook until softened.  Add 1 tsp each ginger, turmeric, smoked paprika & cinnamon plus the zest of a lemon & cook a further 2 minutes.  Stir in diced pumpkin then 2 cups chicken stock.  Scrape up all the sticky bits at the bottom of the pan.  Add a cup of basmati rice - I used brown - & sit the thighs on top.  Cover & bake 45 mins at 180.  
A reader sent me a photo of her egg & kefte tagine & I want to share it with you.  Do you have any photos to share?  I think the tagines have been a hit and many of you are making them.  Good old  Ghillie.  You may be surprised to discover she is actually Scottish.  She has also been shortlisted "Pasta Journalist of the Year".   Who knew their was such an honour?  Does anyone know who won?

Pork or fish

Now we are back at work and it is summer of sorts we are looking for quick light meals. Phoebe has been preparing many of the meals and we have been eating fish when she's working.
One of her favourite meals, & one she is successfully mastering, is pork with cider. Take one pork chop per person & trim off the fat if there is any. Wrap in cling film & bash the chop out a little - not too thin.
Cook the chops in a pan with garlic infused olive oil, on a high heat, about 5 minutes per side. You could add garlic to regular oil but it is likely to catch & pre-infused is quicker. Take out the chops & stand - cover to keep warm. Pour about 125ml (for 2 chops) cider into the pan & deglaze, then add 1 tbsp grainy mustard & 75ml cream. Let the sauce cook a few minutes then pour over the chops. Apparently the cook gets to drink what's left of the bottle of cider. Phoebe served with gnocchi which she turned in the remaining pan juices before serving, and steamed beans. The gnocchi was a find. The Scopa guy is selling hand made pasta at the market & his gnocchi is amazing. As you can see his pedigree is impeccable. You can drop it in boiling water & when it rises to the top it is done. Lorenzo (or maybe Leonardo), recommended tossing in a little butter in a pan until lightly golden. It only needs a minute or so. He did say add a minute for every day it has been made. It was delicious. I find gnocchi a challenge to make & most bought stuff is inedible so I was delighted to discover this.
This pork meal is not heavy but if you are looking for a lighter option try a fillet of fish. Terakihi is beautiful dusted with a little seasoned flour & lightly pan fried. You can serve with a medley of roasted spring vegetables. Toss some fresh young carrots with strips of capsicum, boiled baby potatoes & a few shallots, in olive oil & season. Roast at 180 about 30-40 minutes. I usually put them into a heated tray at 200 & immediately turn down. After 20 minutes add thick slices of courgette, cut on the diagonal.
For a thicker cut of fish such as lemon fish, try briefly searing the fish in a pan then transfer to the dish with the vegetables to finish off in the oven. You can do this with any vegetables & I have done it with root vegetables in a tagine. This week we used cherry tomatoes & capsicum. I bought a selection of different coloured & shaped tomatoes & they all behaved a little differently. Some retained shape & firmness & others dissolved into little balls of sweet deliciousness. Using the method above, roast the capsicum & tomatoes in a hot dish in a hot oven, 10 minutes. Lightly brown the fish in a pan. Sprinkle a handful of capers & halved black olives with a dash of red wine vinegar over the vegetables & lay the fish fillets on top. Return to the oven 5-8 minutes depending on the thickness of the fish. Sprinkle with parsley & serve with a dish of freshly dug potatoes tossed in parsley & butter. Add a simple salad dressed with lemon & olive oil.
We have a variety of delicious leaves growing in the garden at the moment. In addition to Cos, Little Gem & Red Sails we are growing Sorrel & Radicchio. Apparently Sorrel is something you will find in every French housewife's kitchen garden. You can't buy it in the shops - you have to grow it & I recommend you do. I found a ratty little seedling at the garden centre & it is flourishing. You just pick off the leaves as required. I am planning to experiment with sauces & soup. One of you sent me some recipes I am about to try. Radicchio is a red relative of chicory & is a pretty leaf that goes well in salads. Remember a recent foray to the green grocer where he insisted that I probably wanted radishes & didn't know how to spell. I have been struggling to buy it recently so we are producing our own. It is also a success.
On the topic of success it has not been a great year for jam fruit, at least in our neck of the woods. I did manages to pick up some reasonably priced blueberries & small strawberries. We have a bit of a surplus of rhubarb as well, so we now have a small quantity of strawberry, blueberry & rhubarb & ginger jam. That should tide us over.