La Pasta in Casa

I thought it would be nice to make pasta and I bought 00 flour.  Some considerable time later I thought, "Must get on to that pasta making" and I bought a pasta machine.  More time passed and I thought, "Must get that pasta machine out of the box".  So at last the flour and machine were introduced.  It transpired that some years had passed between the initial thought and the action.  The flour was no longer viable and the pasta was not a success.  Undeterred I bought another bag of flour and this time it all came together.
Making pasta really is quite simple.  Just make sure your flour is fresh!  I consulted Marcella Hazan, her son, Giuliano and the New York Times.   This is what worked for me.  Start with 1 egg per 100g flour.  You need at least two eggs to get a quantity you can work with and you can dry it and store in an airtight container so there is no issue with having more than you need.  Before you begin, clear your work surface because you will need plenty of room once you start rolling.  Pour the flour into a mound on the work surface.  Note that marble is too cold and won't work.  Make a well in the centre of the flour and break the eggs one at a time into the well.  Beat the eggs gently with a fork until the yolks and whites are mixed together - actually this proved a bit hard and I resorted to whisking the eggs first before pouring into the well.  With the fork, gradually incorporate the flour into the egg until the egg is no longer runny.  Work from the inside wall of the well.  If the egg escapes onto the bench it is not easy to recapture.  Once you've reached the stage where you have quite a viscous mixture, quickly bring the remaining flour over the egg mixture and scoop it up, mixing with your hands until you have a moist but not sticky dough.  Wrap the lump of dough in cling film to stop it drying out at all and clean the work surface and your hands ready for kneading.  Knead the dough until it is very smooth and silky - this only takes a couple of minutes if all is well. Rewrap in cling film and rest for at least 20 minutes.
Set up your machine for rolling and get out lots of tea towels to lay out the rolled dough.   Cut a three-egg dough into six portions and keep the ones you are not working with wrapped in cling film.  Flatten the chunk of dough in your fingers and start to feed the dough through the machine starting at the widest setting.  Feed each portion through this setting three or four times, folding into three after each roll.  Then, reducing the rollers by one notch each time roll all the pieces through the machine and lay them out on dry tea towels.  Leave to dry a little so that it feels a bit leathery but not brittle.  Maybe 10-20 mins.
When they are ready, shape your pasta.  We made fettuccine according to the instructions on the machine.  To store the ribbons, wrap them loosely around your hands to form nests then leave to dry on a tea towel before storing in an airtight container.  They will keep for months.
To cook drop the pasta in a large saucepan of well salted boiling water and boil with the lid off for a few minutes until al dente; 2-3 mins will be enough on the day of making. 
I rediscovered the classic tomato sauce for pasta.  Put two tins of tomatoes in a saucepan with a halved onion and 100g butter.  Simmer over a low heat about 40 minutes until the tomatoes have reduced and slightly separated from the butter.  Discard the onion and either use the sauce immediately, set aside to reheat later or freeze. This sauce is indescribably good.   It will keep for a few days in the fridge. Serve this on any kind of pasta including filled shapes, which is our next project.  I served the first batch with cauliflower florets that I had lightly steamed then roasted in olive oil with a sprinkling of chilli flakes.  Just top with the sauce and some grated parmesan.
We used the reserved fettuccine with chicken and mushrooms with tarragon, which is a dish well worth trying.  We have made this two or three times and it is nice with any of the suggested accompaniments.
We  made some pappardelle by loosely rolling the sheets and cutting by hand about two centimetres wide.  We served this with my go to Bolognese recipe.  This sauce with pappardelle is one of my favourite pasta dishes and the home made pasta just made it better.
This experiment has been worth the effort and we will be keeping it up. Next we will be trying stuffed pasta.  If you have any suggestions about making pasta at home please share.  All ideas welcome.

Chicken dinner

We don't eat chicken as often as we used to.  Not even to make stock because we can buy frames at Moore Wilson.  Recently we needed to replenish the stock and I recalled a wonderful chicken recipe with orzo and leeks, which I discovered last year.  This is such a simple way to serve a roast chicken meal with minimum effort and put at least one more meal on the table during the week, as well as replenish your stock stores. 
Sit a chicken in a roasting pan, breast side up.  Pour over the juice of a lemon, rubbing some into the skin, then stuff the lemon skins into the cavity along with some sprigs of thyme and rosemary, and tarragon if you have it.  Ours has died back for the winter. 
Drizzle the chicken with olive oil and dot with a little butter.  Chop some more of the herbs and sprinkle over, then season with sea salt and black pepper.  Add about 2cm of water to the pan and lots of unpeeled garlic cloves.  A dozen would be good.  Roast at 200 for 70 minutes or until done. 
Transfer the chicken and garlic to a plate, cover with foil and keep warm while you prepare the accompaniments. Add about 1/4 cup white wine to the pan juices, bring to the boil on the stove top and reduce to a pouring cream consistency. 
Meanwhile, and I would start this just before taking out the chicken, boil a saucepan of water for the orzo and sauté in a little olive oil a finely sliced leek in a heavy bottomed frying pan.  Cook the leeks until they are soft and sweet then add 2-3 bunches of finely sliced spinach.  Cook the orzo (or risoni or any rice shaped pasta) according to the instructions on the packet and mix with the leek mixture.  Pile the orzo mixture onto a serving plate and top with the chicken and garlic then drizzle over the reduced winey pan juices.  This will become your go to chicken recipe. 
Next day make stock.  The left over orzo makes a good weekend lunch  - just heat and add any other left over greens you have in the fridge.  You could add some cooked puy lentils if there is not so much orzo and more of you.
During the week you could use up the left over chicken in a pasta dish.  Make a tomato sauce by gently frying chopped garlic in a little olive oil then add a crumbled dried chilli, 2 tsp dried oregano and 3 tins of tomatoes.  Simmer for an hour then add a tbsp. red wine vinegar and stir well to make sure all the tomatoes are broken down.  You can use what you need now and freeze the rest in batches for later.  Once you've set aside some to freeze add the shredded left over chicken and maybe some blanched broccoli or whatever green vegetable you have to hand.  Serve with penne or fusilli pasta topped with grated parmesan. Or your home made tagliatelle.  But that is another story.

Courgettes every day

Over the long hot dry that has been Wellington's summer this year we have been feasting from the garden.  Along with lettuces, spring onions, radishes and rainbow chard, we have had a bumper crop of courgettes.  We have had green & yellow courgettes and some wonderful scallopini.  I didn't know that as the scallopini grow they change from bright yellow to a rich creamy colour.
Very fresh radishes it turns out are delicious buttered and dipped in salt.  This turned up in a book of Parisian cooking as something to have with an aperitif, and also appeared in Hugh's veg.  Basically, spread a little of your very best butter - we are currently eating Lewis Rd - on a radish & sprinkle with a pinch of very best sea salt.
We have struggled to keep up with the courgettes and at times were eating them every day.  Luckily, there are so many good things to do with a courgette.  For an excellent fettuccine dish, gently fry 2 cloves of finely chopped garlic with a finely chopped onion & 4 thickly sliced courgettes until the onion is soft.  Add a pinch of saffron threads that have been soaking in 1/4 cup water for 15 mins or so - add the water as well.  Add 4 diced tomatoes and 200ml cream.  Stir this mixture through cooked fettuccine with 200g crumbled goat's feta and a handful of torn basil leaves.  Top with grated Parmesan.
Try a warm chickpea salad filled with summer veg.  This is a bit of an assembly job.  Start by softening a finely sliced red onion with 1 tsp cumin seeds in a pan.  Put in a large bowl with 2 tbsp olive oil and 3 tbsp white wine vinegar.   Rinse & drain 2 tins of chick peas & heat through in a pan of boiling water then drain & add to the bowl.  Cook 2 cobs of corn & scrape the kernels into the bowl - I have a gadget that does this really efficiently and is also good if you have braces or have just had your wisdom teeth extracted and can't gnaw it straight from the cob.  Steam or blanch some green beans & add to the bowl along with 1/2 cup pitted green olives, thinly sliced deseeded red chilli, 1 cup flat leaf parsley (remember I don't eat coriander but you might like to).  Toss to combine, season & sprinkle on some crumbled goat's cheese.  Some crusty sourdough would be nice with this to soak up the dressing on the plate at the end.
To really celebrate a glut of summer vegetables what about a Spanish vegetable stew - a menestra.  I used a few leaves of chard, a large handful of green beans, 2 courgettes, 100g green beans.  I would have added asparagus if they had been around. Strip the leaves from the chard & chop the stalks into 5 cm pieces, halve the beans, slice the courgettes lengthways into stubby sticks.  Bring a large pan of water to the boil & cook the vegetables separately for the appropriate amount of time.  Lift them out with a slotted spoon & refresh under cold water then set aside.  About 5 minutes for the beans, three for the chard stalks (not leaves), courgettes.  Reserve the cooking water.  Heat some olive oil in a cazuela or wide shallow pan and soften a thinly sliced onion & garlic clove.  Stir in 25g plain flour. Gradually stir in about 500ml of the cooking water & 1/2 tsp caster sugar.  Bring to the boil & simmer a couple of minutes.
Stir 150g peas & the chard leaves into the sauce & cook 3 minutes or so then stir in all the cooked vegetables to heat through.  You could have this as a light mid-week meal or as a side with fish.  Either way, it is a delicious way of serving summer greens.
When one courgette is hiding under the leaves & becomes marrow-like before you discover it, try stuffing it with a rice mixture.  I cooked up about 150g lamb mince with onion, garlic & 1 tsp each of cinnamon & cumin.  I mixed through about 1 cup homemade tomato sauce & 1/2 cup cooked rice.  Halve 2 marrow-like courgettes & scrape out the seeds.  Lay in a baking dish where they fit snugly and fill with the mince mixture.  Bake at 180 about 1/2 an hour until the courgettes are tender. 

Golden Weather

Wellington has had an outstanding summer and we have eaten outside more than usual.  This has been very conducive to summer dining and we have had lots of salady things and summer vegetables.  The garden has really enjoyed the sun and we have been racing to catch the courgettes before they escaped to marrowdom.
Summer feels right for Spanish cooking and we remembered a while back, on Rick Stein's series on Spain, he made an intriguing Catalan pasta dish which we've been meaning to try for ages.  Catalan use Fideua noodles which are short thin pieces of dried pasta similar in thickness and texture to spaghettini.  We found something called fadennudeln, which is German but which fitted Rick's description.  You could just use spaghettini & break it up.  Whatever you decide, have a go.
The recipe said to make a fish stock with tomato passata but we actually had some tomato sauce we wanted to use up so we improvised a bit and just used that, diluted with some light chicken stock.  I would make the fish stock next time if I had the time.
In the paella pan (if you don't have one use a regular slope sided pan), fry 2 cloves of thinly sliced garlic.  Keep a close eye on it because garlic burns easily and you are looking for golden rather than charred.  As soon as it colours scoop it out & set aside.  Add 150g of the noodles and fry them in the garlicky oil  until they are golden.  Again you are looking for light golden rather than dark.  Stir in 500g of the tomatoey stock or stocky tomato sauce, a little salt & the fried garlic.  Bring to the boil, then reduce & simmer 9 minutes or so until all the liquid has evaporated.  Remove from the heat, cover with an opened out newspaper and leave to rest.  When Rick did this all the pasta strands pointed upwards but that didn't happen for us.
While the pasta is resting cook the seafood.  We had squid and prawns which worked well.  You'll want to have them prepared before you start the pasta so maybe I should have mentioned this at the top of the page.  You should always read the whole recipe before you start.  Don't you hate it when you're halfway through cooking tonight's dinner when it says "now put in the fridge overnight"?
Use 75g-100g each of peeled prawns and sliced squid.  Heat a little olive oil in another pan, add the squid & prawns over a high heat for 1-1 1/2 minutes until just cooked but nicely caremelised.  Season with a little salt and serve alongside the pasta.  To serve the pasta, dot with aioli (which the Spanish call alioli).  If you don't like seafood you could probably sautee some chicken thighs cut into quite small pieces.
Now that the aubergine season is in full swing we have been making aubergine stacks with chicken and cheese.  We were inspired to this by a delicious meal we ate at the house of one of you.  I don't know if this is what you did but this is our method.  Slice two chicken breasts into thinner slices and flatten the thicker slices by bashing between cling film.  You want thin escalopes of chicken that will sit on a slice of aubergine.  Brush the chicken pieces with oil & white wine vinegar & season.  Fan grill at 200 for about 15 minutes turning once.
Slice an aubergine lengthwise and brush with olive oil.  Grill on a ribbed hot plate or heavy bottomed pan 2-3 mins each side  then finish off with 5 mins under the fan grill.  Grill thick slices of haloumi.  Heat through a small quantity of that homemade tomato sauce you always keep in the freezer.  To assemble, lay a slice of aubergine on the plate, top with a slice of chicken, a slice of haloumi, some torn basil leaves and top with a splodge of tomato sauce.   I think you could be flexible here and think about trying different cheeses & herbs.  Maybe try oregano with the haloumi & mozarella with basil.  You'd probably have to pop the assembled stack under the grill to melt the mozarella.  Or try paneer with coriander.
Last Sunday I made an outstanding vegan pudding I had been meaning to try.  This was inspired by a recipe from the raw food people in Auckland, Little Bird.  I don't actually subscribe to the raw food philosophy any more than I embrace veganism or gluten free for its own sake, but I will champion any meal prepared with good quality ingredients that tastes great.  These chocolate ganache tarts certainly measure up.  This is the version we saw on River Cottage Veg.  I used cashews instead of pecans - cheaper.  I used Blue Coconut oil, Green & Black organic fairly traded cocoa and I substituted the maple syrup for the agave nectar.  Actual maple syrup not maple flavoured syrup!  I also made individual tarts using muffin pans and a couple of extras served in a dish as mousse.  Think about freezing & serving as ice cream.  Note that you must serve this really chilled - at room temperature you may taste the avocado.  It will taste less sweet when chilled so sweeten to a little sweeter than your taste prior to chilling.  It is really rich so think about mini servings.  It is truly delicious so hungry people may eat two but people who overfilled on mains won't manage it even if they think they want to.
On a final note, over the next month we are hosting visitors from foreign parts  - the UK & Canada.  What shall I feed them?  Any suggestions for meals which show off what we produce in New Zealand and are summery?

Pasta, grains & greens

When I first introduced soup Monday I made a wonderful barley soup inspired by Alison Holst & I returned there this week.  This had two pleasing consequences.  I discovered I had more pearl barley in the cupboard than I needed & remembered a barley salad I had been meaning to make.  You could serve this with anything really but we had lamb meatballs which worked well.  Just make your favourite meatball recipe.  We included onion, garlic & cinnamon.  For the salad cook 1/2 cup of pearl barley for about half an hour until tender.  It may take a little longer.  Drain, toss through 2 tbsp olive oil & set aside to cool slightly.  In the meantime mix a cup chopped parsley, 1/4 finely diced preserved lemon, a few black olives, juice of 1/2 a lemon, crumbled feta & some finely sliced mint leaves.  Mix in the cooled barley & top with meatballs.  Good as lunch leftovers later in the week.  Look forward to lots of barley on these pages in the coming weeks.Are you wondering what the second consequence was - did you think I had forgotten?  The soup requires a can of creamed sweetcorn & I only needed 1/2  a tin for two.  We added the remaining corn to the Friday night omelette.  Try this - it was delicious.  I have a real soft spot for creamed corn.
I often think of the green vegetable first & then come up with a way to fit a meal around it.  For a simple weekday meal you can't go past Hugh F-W's macaroni peas.  Cook pasta - we used macaroni but penne or whatever shapes you have to hand would do as well.  Cook some frozen peas.  While the peas are cooking gently soften a clove of garlic in a little butter.  Blend half the peas with the butter, garlic, 25g Parmesan & enough of the pea cooking water to make a puree.  Think pesto.  Combine with the rest of the peas & pasta, add more Parmesan & mix through basil or parsley.
Roasted roots crumble seemed like a good accompaniment to leeks & greens this week.  Roast a selection of pale root vegetables - potato, parsnip, swede, celeriac - cut into smallish chunks & some sliced onion, with a mustardy dressing.  Mix equal quantities of wholegrain mustard, honey & olive oil with a good quantity of chopped rosemary and toss the veg around in it.  Cover the veg & roast at 180 for 45 minutes then uncover & cook a further 20 minutes at 200.  You want the vegetables well cooked & golden but not browned.  Pour a few tbsp cream over the vegetables - this is just to meld them together a little so you could omit if you don't have cream in the cupboard.  Top with a crumble made of a handful of rolled oats, 2-3 slices of crumbed bread, toasted hazlenut roughly chopped , grated cheese & a little melted butter.  Return to the oven for 10-15 minutes to crisp up the crumble.
We made way more than we could eat & there was a little cranbapple sauce in the fridge so the next day we had lamb rack with the left over crumble mixed with the left over leeks & greens.
If we are planning to eat mixed greens it seems impossible to buy only what we need for a single meal so another pasta & greens meal was called for.  Again this can be whatever pasta & greens you have to hand.  In our case penne & cabbage with beetroot leaves.   Soften an onion in a little oil then add finely chopped garlic & chilli & cook a little longer.  Cook the pasta in the usual way & a few minutes before the end of cooking add the shredded greens.  Drain the pasta & greens & toss with the onion mix & some grated Parmesan & a drizzle of olive oil.
There was still some spinach & beetroot leaves to use so out came that meal of the moment  - spicy potatoes with greens.  Top it with a poached egg and you have a splendid meal.
This week a work colleague gave me 5 kilos of windfall apples.  Look out for apple recipes next week.  If you have any ideas post them here.
You may remember that when I go to the market every Sunday & have a cup of chowder from Yellow Brick Road for Breakfast.  I occasionally try something different but always return to chowder.  Nothing else quite measures up - until now.  I may have found a new favourite - Vicky Ha and The Dumpling House.  Try those dumplings.  She now sells them frozen by the dozen and I am planning to buy a dozen tofu & spinach dumplings to treat a vegan.  I think my favourite is the pork & cabbage but the Nepalese lamb & veg is a close second.

Salad and pasta

I had bought a piece of rump steak in case it was a good evening for a barbecue.  It wasn't.  The steak went beautifully with a Greek salad and crushed rosemary potatoes, which tend to go with most things.  The Greek salad was a lovely way to use some of our late cos lettuces and the few tomatoes we have produced this year - will there be enough even for a batch of green tomato chutney?  It is good, if you have time to prepare in advance, steeping the red onions with oil & vinegar &  dried oregano, & sprinkling the tomatoes with a little salt & sugar before you throw everything together.
Monday was Peter's regular birthday dinner, smoked salmon pasta.  This is so quick & easy that it hardly seems like a luxury meal.  Heat plenty of cream in a pan, add lemon juice & zest, smoked salmon, grated Parmesan, parsley.  Season & toss through your best egg pasta.  Serve with a salad.    I used to do a vegetarian version but with cream, cheese, egg pasta there's not much here for a vegan.  This is where the Tasty Pot comes in.  Birthday meals can be difficult because the birthday recipient gets their meal of choice but the whole family with their varying eating habits need to be provided for.  It is getting easier to buy good, almost fresh, pre-prepared choices.
We had a variation on a Nicoise salad with avocado & cannellini beans.  I have been moaning a bit about the avocados this year but this was the perfect avocado.  Make a vinaigrette with olive oil, lemon juice, Dijon mustard, garlic & salt & pepper.  Put a tin of tuna, a tin of cannellini beans, some shredded cos lettuce, halved cherry tomatoes, thinly sliced spring onions & flat leaf parsley in a bowl & toss through the dressing.  Add hard boiled egg & slices of avocado.
For the perfect autumn salad try pumpkin (in this case butternut) and rocket with mushrooms & blue cheese.  Roast the pumpkin, peeled & cut into pieces, with some olive oil, bruised sage leaves & bashed garlic, about 40 minutes.  You want it soft & just colouring around the edges.  Fry some thickly sliced mushrooms (a friend told me she was given some field mushrooms this week & they would be perfect here), in a little olive oil & a knob of butter until they are cooked through and any liquid has evaporated. Combine the pumpkin, mushrooms, some rocket & crumbled blue cheese - I used Roquefort - in a bowl & toss with olive oil & balsamic vinegar.   This is quite a substantial meal but make more than you think you will need otherwise you'll wish you had.

Variety, spice, life

We're onto the fish tagines which are (on the evidence of one) light & delicious.  This week we had monkfish with preserved lemon & mint.  The fish was marinated in a classic Moroccan chermoula. Using a mortar & pestle, pound 2 garlic cloves and a finely chopped red chilli with a little salt.  Add a handful of flat leaf parsley leaves & pound to a coarse paste.  Bash in some saffron threads with 2 tsp cumin then bind well with 3 tbsp olive oil & the juice of a lemon.  Cut about 900g (for 4) of white fish fillets into largish chunks & smother with the chermoula mix.  Keeep back 2 tsp to stir through  during cooking.  Marinate 1-2 hours.
When you're ready to eat, heat a little olive oil in your tagine & soften 1 finely chopped red onion, 2 finely chopped carrots, 2 sticks of finely chopped celery.  Add 1 finely chopped preserved lemon, the reserved chermoula & a tin of tomatoes.  Cook about 10 minutes to reduce then add 150 ml water & 150ml white wine or sherry.  If you use a good fino sherry and it will give a good flavour.  Bring to the boil, cover & simmer 10 minutes.  Toss in the fish & cook gently about 8 minutes until the fish is cooked through.  Season & stir through a tsp chopped preserved lemon & shredded mint leaves.  I served this one with boiled new potatoes & a leafy salad.
On Saturday morning we were in Moore Wilson when the Freedom Farms guy was cooking a butterflied rump of pork which he had marinated in ginger ale & soy sauce.  I tasted a piece, had to buy it & that became Sunday's dinner.  We actually marinated it in Stoke's ginger beer.  I served with crushed potatoes flavoured with sage and Alan Fong's greens with gin - actually my version of Alan's vegetables, which I think is a step up from Alan's original.  Did I tell you when we went to Auckland we drove through Pukekohe and we looked out for Alan's veg patch?  We didn't see it - lots of great vegetables though.  We also saw - when all the traffic was diverted  to be breathalysed at 10.00 a.m. - an amazing free range chicken farm.  Couldn't see a name but the chickens looked wonderful.
But I digress.  Because I had some left over meringues & some cream hanging around, I made Eton mess.  I mascerated the strawberries in some cherry brandy & a little sugar.  I later discovered I had some kind of strawberry liqueur that may have been better but any kind of fruity liqueur will do.
While they are better suited to autumn, I wanted to get in some parsnips before the season ended.  We had a delicious roasted parsnip salad with lentils & watercress. For 4, toss 4-5 parsnips, cut unto even chunks, in olive oil, season & roast at 190 for 40 minutes until they are starting to caramelise.  Cook about 100g puy lentils the way you like them.  Make a vinaigrette and add a tsp of clear honey - parsnips like a bit of sweetness.  Put it all together on a plate with some watercress & top with shavings of a hard goat's cheese. 
Wednesday was a birthday tea.  There's no point in me telling you how to make it.  Just look back over the years and there it is.  The same every year.  Chicken Za'atar with fattoush.  This year we added grilled haloumi, Antoinette's falafels, broad beans, guacamole & carrot hummus.
Thursday we had a traditional Ligurian pasta.  This was unusual but delicious.  We had some homemade basil pesto so used that but the walnut-parsley version would have been interesting.
Now that it is more summery, at least some of the time, I find that we just compile a selection of salady things from what we have at hand.  Buy those Antoinette's falafel.  A delicious addition to any meal.  And cook more than you need because they are delicious in your lunch salad.

Wild at home

Remember spaetzle from the German blog? While Peter was away he brought me a spaetzle grater which has largish holes and a contraption to push the spaetzle into the saucepan. I made Coq au Riesling with spaetzle which is a classic Alsatian dish. Cut a chicken into 8 portions and brown them in a casserole dish. Remove &; season. In the casserole add 3 chopped shallots &; 2 chopped cloves or garlic. Flambe with 1 tbsp cognac or brandy. Remember the pan is hot. When you tip in the brandy and put a flame to it, it will go up. Ensure your pan is clear of curtains. Return the chicken pieces to the pan and pour in 1/2 bottle riesling. Add 200g buttom mushrooms. Leave to cook on a low heat until the chicken is done - falling off the bones. This will take 40mins to 1 hour. When the chicken is done remove & keep warm while you cook the spaetzle &; make the sauce. Reduce the cooking liquid (with mushrooms still in) and add 2ooml cream, stirring to thicken.

To make the spaetzle (for 4) you will need 200g flour, 2 eggs, 1/2 tsp salt, 100ml tepid water. Bring a pasta pan filled with salted water to the boil. Mix all the ingredients to make a smooth dough. Using the fancy grater, grate the dough into the pan of boiling water and when the spaetzle rises to the top lift out with a slotted spoon or skimmer. Toss in hot butter. If you don't have a grater you can just cut the dough into little ribbons.

To serve, spoon the creamy mushroom sauce over the chicken with spaetzle on the side. I served with Brussels sprouts because they're my favourite but an Alsatian would have just served a salad to start.

We bought some delicious mushrooms at the market & served mushrooms with pappardelle. Thinly slice as many mushrooms as you want to eat. Melt a little butter in a shallow pan with a little olive oil. Add finely sliced garlic & salt & pepper. Leave to cook until they're dark &; soft, stirring occasionally. Cook the pappardelle or pasta of your choice according to the instructions on the packet & drain. While that's cooling stir in a handful of washed torn spinach and the cream you have left over from the chicken. Stir the drained pasta through the mushrooms & serve with a generous grating of Parmesan.

We went to Auckland for the long weekend. My sister had a fish in her freezer caught by her neighbour. You may recall my sister is afraid of fish so we brought it home. I did wonder what the scanning man at the airport thought of our backpack containing a whole fish, 1/2 dozen eggs (my sister keeps chickens) and a bubbling substance in a jar (a sourdough starter - more of that later).

We filleted the fish and served it pan fried with sauteed potatoes and that delicious pea puree from a couple of weeks back. It was absolutely perfect.

While in Auckland we went to the Clevedon Farmer's Market which I strongly recommend you visit if you are in the area. I tasted & purchased many wonderful things including fabulous portobello mushrooms, Clevedon buffalo salami, casimiora, also known as custard apples, and amazing tomatoes from Curious Croppers. The highlight for me was the sourdough starter I bought from the lady from Running Brook seeds at Waiuku. This was a treasure that she has been nurturing since 2007. I made the bread this morning. All you need to do is keep the starter in the fridge and feed it every few days. To make the bread I took the starter out of the fridge, fed it up until the jar was nearly full and left it on the bench for a few hours. You need to pour some back into the 2nd jar & return to the fridge to keep it growing. When it was ready I tipped the starter into a bowl with 2 cups strong bread flour, 1 tbsp olive oil and 1 dsp salt. Mix well and tip into a loaf tin. Make sure it is spread into the corners, cover with a tea towel & leave to rise in a warm place. Then bake at 180 for 1hr 10 mins. Couldn't be easier or more delicious. If anyone is interested in getting some starter off me yell out. I will provide detailed instructions.

End of the Golden Weather

The summer crops are winding down and the new season's produce is filling the market stalls. All the brassicas looked irresistible but I settled for broccoli which we just steamed and served with an old favourite beef stew. It's a good idea to make lots and freeze as it is little effort and you'll have a 2nd hearty meal to produce on one of those nights when you don't have time to cook but want something substantial when you finally get in.

Cut 2kg of stewing steak (blade, chuck, skirt) into thick chunks. Finely chop together 4 rashers of bacon, 2 onions, 2 carrots, 2 sticks celery, 4 cloves garlic with a handful of parsley & thyme. Gently cook in a tbsp lard in a heavy casserole (if you don't want to use lard try olive oil instead but lard gives good flavour here) and set aside. Heat a 2nd tbsp lard in a second pan and brown the meat in batches. When it is done sprinkle a handful of flour over the last batch and cook until the flour has browned. Add the meat to the casserole and to the meat pan add 1 cup red wine, 1 tbsp soy sauce, 2 cups water and salt & pepper. Scrape up the meat residue and add to the meat and vegetables. Cover & cook in a low oven about an hour. Take it out and add some vegetables selecting from mushrooms, pickling onions, carrots, potatoes, baby turnips. Just prepare them and chop them into a size you like. Return to the oven and cook for another hour. If you have 2 casseroles you could split them at this stage & put a different set of vegetables in each one.

Now that daylight saving has ended we are back on soup Mondays. We started the season with Egyptian lentil, served with some pita that was in the fridge and had seen better days. For 2 people, heat a small quantity of oil in a pan and soften a finely diced onion, a sliced garlic clove, a small piece of ginger grated and 1/2 a carrot, grated. Stir in a tsp each of cumin, turmeric and paprika and cook for a minute or two. Add a couple of handfuls of red lentils and stir through the spices then add 500ml chicken stock. Simmer until the lentils are cooked. Meanwhile brush a couple of pita breads with oil on both sides then cut into triangles and gently toast in a medium oven for about 8 minutes. You want them crisp but not so crisp that they shatter when you bite them.

On Tuesday I did something I've been thinking about for ages. I love mattar paneer and Zany Zeus have brought out a paneer so I thought I'd have a go. I delved into my trusty Indian Vegetarian Cookery bought in London 30 years ago and it did not disappoint. Cube the paneer (I just bought a pack of paneer that seemed the right amount for 2 people) and fry in ghee until golden. Set aside. In a mortar & pestle grind a small piece of grated ginger, 1 tsp turmeric, 1/2 tsp chilli, 1 tsp cumin seeds, seeds from 2 cardamom pods, a small piece of cinnamon and mix with a little water to form a paste. In a pan fry a finely chopped onion with 1 tsp each mustard seeds & poppy seeds. Add the paste & fry a couple of minutes. Add 2-3 chopped tomatoes and a cup of peas. Gently fry a couple of minutes, add a cup of water & cook until peas are done. Add the paneer and sprinkle with lemon juice. Serve with rice, home made tamarillo chutney and Indian bread.

If it is a cold night, try sausages in a mustardy sauce. I like to keep a pack of the Island Bay Butcher's pork & fennel sausages in the freezer for a rainy day & Wednesday turned out to be that day. Soften (almost caramelise) 1-2 onions in olive oil. Be patient, you want them to cook right down. While the onions are doing, cook some pasta such as penne or giant conchiglie and set aside. Skin the sausages and break into chunks - you can use any sausages you like. Add to the onion and cook through. Stir through a good dollop each of creamy Dijon and grainy mustard and a handful of chopped Italian parsley. Stir in about 1/2 cup cream and the cooked pasta.

We did a delicious creamy risotto topped with lemony chicken. In a baking dish, combine chopped rosemary and parsley with 2 cloves of crushed garlic, 1/4 cup olive oil and juice of a lemon. Add a couple of chicken thighs - skin on (and skin side up) if you can get them. Put in the oven at 180 and roast 30-40 minutes, basting once. Cover & set aside to rest.

While the chicken is cooking make a basic risotto adding lemon zest and 2 tbsp chopped sage with the rice. Serve with the chicken sliced on top andif you want to be fancy cook a few sage leaves in hot olive oil until crisp. I did the sage leaves in the leftover oil and fat the chicken cooked in - okay if you used a pan that can be used on the stove top.

In the weekend I made a batch of quince jelly. Yell out if you would like a jar. I used to be scared of jelly because people suggest it is complicated but it really is not. Wash & quarter 5-6 quinces. Put them in a large pan (skin, cores and all) covered with water and simmer covered until quinces are soft. Mash the quinces & water until you have a liquidy mush. Spoon the mush into a jelly bag suspended over a large bowl. You have a lot of liquid so I spooned in the solids using a slotted spoon & then poured the liquid over in batches, transferring the resulting pink liquid to the preserving pan so the bowl didn't overflow. Leave the last batch to drip for hours making sure you have eked out every last drop of liquid from the quinces. Measure the liquid as you go because you want to add 7 cups of sugar to 8 cups of juice. That's 7/8 cup of sugar per cup of juice. Don't be precise but you don't want as much as a whole cup. Bring the juice to the boil then add the sugar. Boil until it is ready, skimming off any foam that appears. You want the liquid to reach about 220F and you can use a cooking thermometer to measure this. Don't rely on it though. When your jelly has been at a rolling boil for 10 minutes or so test it by putting about 1/2 tsp on a dish you have had in the freezer. If after a few seconds, when you push it with your finger it wrinkles a little it is done. Don't worry if it isn't perfect. You'll just have jars of delicious quince sauce to pour over ice cream.

I also pulled the basil plants and
made a batch of pesto. The plan for this weekend is to get all those tomatoes that didn't ripen into a batch of green tomato chutney. 

Dinners to eat on your knees

Our dining table is currently away being fixed. There was a flaw in the design and the whole top is being replaced. This means we are perching on the island or eating on our laps. We need to plan our meals to fit with this arrangement.

On Saturday we had a very simple piece of John Dory grilled with skin on, served on baby leeks. Cook 8-10 baby leeks for a few minutes in boiling salted water then refresh under cold water & set aside. Soft boil 2 eggs about 7 minutes so that you can peel them but the yolk is still slightly runny. Make a mustard vinaigrette using Dijon mustard , white wine vinegar & olive oil. Grill the reserved leeks on a hot griddle pan until they are slightly coloured. Brush the John Dory fillets with butter on each side, season with salt & pepper, ands cook under a hot grill skin side up for about 4 minutes until skin is crispy. Serve the fish on top of the leeks which have been drizzled with the vinaigrette. Top with shavings of Parmesan & serve the egg halved on the side. We thought this deserved one of our bottles of Australian Riesling left us by a generous guest. We opened the Jacobs Creek Steingarten which was perfect.

Sunday was quite cool so I made a heartwarming lamb & pearl barley stew and froze the leftovers. Get your butcher to bone a shoulder of lamb & cut into largish chunks. Brown the meat in batches & set aside. In the pan, soften 1 onion finely chopped, 1 carrot finely diced, 2 sticks celery finely sliced, 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped, with a handful of chopped oregano leaves, peel of 1/2 a preserved lemon & a bay leaf. Return the lamb to the pan with a good slosh of dry white wine, a cup of pearl barley, well rinsed & drained and 750ml chicken stock. Bring to the boil and simmer very gently for a good hour or more until the barley and the lamb are both very tender. Add a handful of baby spinach & stir through to wilt. Season with the juice of 1/2 a lemon and salt & pepper. Stir through some finely chopped parsley. Pearl barley is a beautiful grain to use in winter.

During the week we used the last of the courgettes with pasta. Cut the courgettes into matchsticks & saute, then add the cooked fine ribbon pasta, a dollop of basil pesto, 1/2 an avocado cut into chunks. Mix together, season and top with grated Parmesan. I used a lemon pasta I had in the cupboard but if I hadn't I would have added a good squeeze of lemon juice.

I've been thinking about brown rice which I love but which we didn't have very often because the children weren't keen. Harriet is keen now so when she came to dine I made a very tasty rice stew which I plan to repeat. Almost a brown rice risotto. Start by soaking a handful of dried porcini in a little hot water. Soften a leek or onion or whatever you have to hand in a wide pan. Add 1 cup washed short grain brown rice and stir until shiny. Add a 1 cup vegetable stock or water and cook until the rice begins to become tender, stirring occasionally. This will take about 10 mins. Chop the softened mushrooms & add with the soaking water, making sure to leave the sediment behind. Add a tin of tomatoes and any vegetables you need to use up. I added 1/2 a chopped kamo kamo. Cook about another 10 minutes stirring occasionally. Add more water if you need to. When the rice is almost done stir through a can of drained cannellini beans. I also added a handful of spinach I needed to use up. Stir through some chopped basil & parsley & serve.

On Friday we had friends over to watch a dvd. We had chilli and a beautiful salad featuring lettuce, carrots, radishes & tomatoes from the garden.

Table for Two

Cooking for two every night is not the same as cooking for three. We have been thinking ahead as it is often difficult to cook up a smaller quantity of, for example, ratatouille. You need a certain quantity to actually produce the desired consistency. I made the quantity for 4 and served half of it with a fillet of beef. The beef was seared in a pan on a high heat, then cooked to rare in the oven, at 180, for about 20 minutes. Slice to serve. Peter actually made some thick chips cooked on duck fat, which is probably so bad I shouldn't be owning up to it. But you are going to see them in the picture. They are delicious and very well drained. As you can see we didn't overdo it. Any left over beef can be used up in a packed lunch salad. All sorts of left over things go in my salads. It's amazing what works cold with some greens and a dressing. Let me know if you have any new ideas.
A couple of nights later we reheated the remaining ratatouille and served tossed through penne pasta. Ratatouille really does taste better second time around. The flavours meld beautifully. And this is a great quick meal if you are going to be home late or need to rush out straight afterwards.
Try cooking meatballs in a fresh sauce. Make up some meatballs with about 350g pork mince, a clove of garlic crushed, a little salt, sugar & pepper and a tbsp chopped parsley. Brown the meatballs over a moderate heat and then add 1/2 each of a red & yellow capsicum roughly sliced and a handful of black olives. Cook a further 15 minutes then add 2 tomatoes roughly chopped, with a handful of capers. Cook a further 3 -5 minutes. Sprinkle over some balsamic vinegar to serve.
This meal would stand well on its own however I have been introduced to a new vegetable and we decided to add it to this table. Kamo kamo is a vegetable from the squash family which was cultivated by Maori before Europeans arrived here. You may see it in the shops or market called kumi kumi. I am not sure of its origins. There are all sorts of opinions on the Internet but I was told to treat it as a courgette. My instructions were to cut into largish chunks and steam in lashings of butter & pepper. It was delicious. I have modified subsequently. Cut 1 smallish kamo kamo into chunks and toss in ground pepper. Heat a little olive oil in a pan & add the kamo kamo with a knob of butter. Cover the pan tightly with tinfoil and firmly apply the lid. Steam 20 minutes or so. This is better than courgette if you can imagine such a possibility.
Lastly, you know my penchant for beetroot. I found this amazing recipe for grated carrots & beetroot. We used Clevedon buffalo mozzarella. This is the perfect accompaniment for lamb steaks and couscous or on its own for lunch or even a light supper. And it is really yummy in the lunch salad the next day.